Fond old memories of timeless Christmas fare

Christmas has always been a time for traditions, flavours, and creating memorable experiences — a season to gather around tables filled with food that tells the story of who we are and where we come from.

For someone like me, a retired chef and restaurateur with decades of international culinary adventures, including providing authentic, nationality-specific catering for over forty embassies in Hanoi, the holiday season evokes a delightful mix of nostalgia, hunger, thirst and humour.

And what better way to celebrate than through dishes that reflect Canada’s rich ethnic diversity?

From my reasonably extensive travel experiences, it’s clear that every corner of the globe deeply appreciates the humble yet delightful meat pie. In my previous role in curating menus for over forty embassies in the capital city of Hanoi, Vietnam, it was crucial to ensure that the savoury pastries were authentically prepared in accordance with the culinary traditions of each specific country. Highlighting these pastries prominently on the menu was essential to provide an authentic cultural experience for the guests.

For my close friends, the Argentine and Chilean Ambassadors, making their beloved empanadas, with their golden, flaky crusts encapsulating rich, seasoned fillings, evoked a sense of home and national pride for them that made me and my team very happy. For the Haitians, the spicy Creole patties, bursting with a medley of spices and hot chilli peppers, offer a vibrant culinary experience that embodies the nation’s lively Caribbean culture.

Meanwhile, the iconic Cornish pasties of England, hand-held and robust, have warmed the hearts and hands of royalty, miners and farmers alike for generations.

Down under, in Australia and New Zealand, they adore their savoury meat pies, filled generously with minced beef enveloped in a luscious gravy, often complemented by a tangy drizzle of tomato sauce on top. The convenience of quick-to-serve snack-meal meat pies makes them a favourite choice for festive gatherings or a lively night out at the pub.

Across the Middle East, sfiha — open-faced pastries — adorn a beautifully spiced mixture of lamb or beef, turning family get-togethers into occasions filled with aromatic allure.

For Nigerians, flaky meat pies are a staple during joyous celebrations, bringing families together in a shared love for good food — a vibrant explosion of flavours housed in a golden, flaky crust that delights the palate with every bite. Their tender pastry encasing a zesty blend of minced beef and colourful vegetables perfectly captures the essence of their rich culinary tradition.

The Russians enjoy and identify with a wide variety of meat pies close to their hearts. Still, the pirozhki, soft, pillowy buns filled with either savoury minced meat or tender cabbage, make them an ideal choice for holiday feasts shared among family and friends.

The Mediterraneans also love their meat pies; Italy showcases the impressive timpano — a dome-shaped pie that is a testament to culinary genius, brimming with layers of pasta, hearty meatballs, and gooey cheese. Spain’s empanada Gallega presents a tasty pie generously packed with succulent tuna or cod that reflects the country’s coastal bounty.

Greece’s Moussaka is a baked stroke of genius of lamb, potato and eggplant yumminess. Meanwhile, in Asia, the echoes of French colonial history bring forth Vietnam’s bánh pâté chaud, a flaky puff pastry filled with seasoned pork, offering a delightful bite of flavour and texture. Japan adds its twist with a kare pan, where fluffy, deep-fried bread encases a lightly spiced Japanese curry, creating a comforting fusion of tastes.

Ukraine’s pyrizhky, tiny buns baked or fried and stuffed with savoury minced meat or potatoes, are a festive favourite, particularly during Christmas celebrations. The Philippines offers its own version of an indulgent empanada, filled with sweet or savoury ingredients like minced meat and vegetables or even spiced pork adobo wrapped in a delicate yet sturdy crust. Germany’s Fleischpastete, a hearty meat pie often paired with rich gravy and a side of red cabbage, brings an air of colour and rustic festivity to the table. At the same time, Austria’s Fleischstrudel combines minced meat and onions wrapped in delicate pastry for an elegant and comforting dish.

Each of these meat pies, rich in history and flavour, serves not just as food but as a celebration of culture and tradition at festivals worldwide.

Of course, we Canadians have our own contenders, none more iconic than the tourtière. I was born and raised in Montréal, Québec, where tourtière is as sacred as our Canadien hockey team and Celine Dion’s velvety voice. But there are tourtières … and then there’s the ultimate pie: the Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean Tourtière.

The Saguenay Tourtière: A Feast Fit for a Family

My stepfather Yves Lalancette, whom I knew only briefly, left a lasting impression through his love of Benedictine Liquor and Cutty Sark Scotch and his very memorable Christmas tradition of baking a large enamel Dutch oven filled with aromatic and hearty tourtière that could feed twenty people.

Unlike its thinner, ground-meat pie cousins, this version from Quebec’s Saguenay region is a deep-dish stewy masterpiece. Packed with cubed meats like venison or hare, diced potatoes, onions, and a touch of spice, it’s slow-cooked to perfection, melding flavours over hours.

Here’s Yves’s recipe, passed down through family lore:

Ingredients:

• 1 pound venison or game meat, cubed

• 1 pound wild duck or goose cubed

• 1 pound salt pork belly, cubed

• 1 pound wild rabbit, cubed

• 1 pound veal, cubed

• 1 pound beef chuck cubed

• 2 pounds peeled potatoes, diced the same size as the meat

• 2 large onions, chopped large

• 2 carrots chopped large

• 1 quart of rich stock (beef or veal

• 1/2 tsp cinnamon

• 1/2 tsp nutmeg

• A pinch of ground clove

• 1 cup of red wine

• A few shots of Cutty Sark Scotch in the stew and a few shots in Yves

• Salt and pepper to taste

• Pastry dough for a double-crust pie (see below)

Preparation:

1. Combine meats, wine, onions, carrots and spices; refrigerate overnight.

2. Soak potatoes in water; refrigerate overnight.

3. Line a large Dutch Oven with pastry dough.

4. Mix meats and drained potatoes; adjust seasoning.

5. Fill the dish and add broth to cover the filling. Top with pastry, creating a steam vent.

6. Bake at 210°C (410°F) for 30 minutes; reduce heat to 150°C (300°F) and bake another 5 hours. Finish uncovered for a golden crust.

Pastry Dough Recipe:

• 1 lb lard

• 5.5 cups sifted flour

• 1 egg

• 2 tbsp vinegar

• 1 can Sprite or 7-Up

• 1 tsp salt

Method: Cut lard into flour, mix wet ingredients, and combine until dough forms. Chill for an hour before rolling.

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A Ukrainian Christmas Classic: Perogies

On Christmas 1980, I found myself at a Ukrainian-owned restaurant, John’s Place, in Fort St. John, BC, where perogies reigned supreme. These humble dumplings outshone even the prime rib and Alaskan king crab on the menu. Customers simply couldn’t get enough of the buttery, bacon and onion-laden creations.

Perogies, or “varenyky,” are a Ukrainian staple. Filled with creamy potatoes and cheddar, they are boiled and sautéed with onions. Here’s a tender dough recipe that incorporates potato flour for authenticity:

Potato Flour Perogie Dough:

• 1 cup mashed potatoes

• 1 cup potato flour

• 1 large egg (optional)

• 1/4 cup warm milk

• 1/2 tsp salt

Method:

1. Mash potatoes until smooth; mix in egg (if using).

2. Gradually add potato flour, forming a soft dough.

3. Roll out to 1/8 inch thick, cut circles, fill, and seal edges.

Boil until floating; then sauté in butter with chopped onions and bacon. Serve these perogies with 14% MF sour cream and prepare for the inevitable chorus of “some more, please!” Using potato flour has several benefits. It gives a softer, melt-in-your-mouth texture that many Ukrainian households strive for in their perogies. The dough also has a mild potato flavour, which works well with fillings like potato cheddar or sauerkraut. Additionally, potato flour is a gluten-free option for people who cannot eat wheat. Recipes made with potato flour are naturally gluten-free, similar to older traditions before wheat flour became common.

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Westman’s Christmas Table

Christmas in our neck of the woods is a kaleidoscope of traditions. Here are a few of my favourite standout dishes: Smoked Goldeye: This timeless buttery fish is a festive appetizer, often served with crackers and cream cheese or can be made into a whipped cream cheese dip.

Bannock and Wild Rice Stuffing: Indigenous Manitobans inspired my Bannock, wild rice, cranberries, and nut stuffing that pairs beautifully with venison or turkey roasts. Bûche de Noël: A French-Canadian Yule Log cake remains a show-stopping dessert especially in Manitoba’s Francophone communities. Let us not forget the joy that assembling a Gingerbread House brings to the young and young at heart.

Turkey Pho: After the carcass is stripped of meat, I make a turkey broth that I serve with rice noodles, leftover cooked turkey meat, fresh-squeezed lemon, herbs, green onion, and fish sauce. My wife and son, who were born in Hanoi, love this dish during the holidays and throughout the year now.

The delight of Christmas cuisine is in its remarkable power to bring us together — be it gathered around a steaming plate of golden, buttery perogies stuffed with creamy potato, bacon and cottage cheese, a decadent slice of chocolate bûche de Noël adorned with delicate meringue mushrooms, or a warming mug of crown royal-laced eggnog topped with a sprinkle of nutmeg.

The true magic of this season is found in the moments shared with loved ones around the table, where the clatter of utensils and the laughter echoing through the kitchen and dining room create an atmosphere of warmth and reverence.

As I reflect on these cherished times with my family, I realize that food transcends mere nourishment; it serves as a vital bridge that connects hearts. Each slice of a rich, savoury Saguenay tourtière — or any traditional meat pie — carries the essence and celebration of generations gone by.

Whether it is the process of boiling perogies for an eager crowd, the aroma of baked spices filling the air, or the joyful passing of delicately smoked goldeye dish creating a tapestry of shared experiences, it is the sense that touches the memory most.

We partake in a time-honoured tradition as ancient as humanity: breaking bread with those we hold dear. From the heart of my kitchen to yours, on behalf of the team at The Brandon Sun and Westman This Week, I wish you a Merry Christmas filled with joy, love, and the warmth of shared meals. Bon appétit!